Montenegro and Boka Bay (Bay of Kotor) remain one of the few Balkan destinations relatively untouched by mass tourism—except for Kotor, which is overcrowded with daily cruise ships unloading 3,000 tourists-. It’s in part because its airport (Tivat) has a limited airline connections, the country’s still low tourism promotion & maybe the fact that it’s not part of the European Union (even tho they use the euro as the official currency).
Either way, it’s better this way. Because, if you’re looking to escape the overtourism in Dubrovnik region, Croatia, Boka Bay is the perfect alternative for your holiday !
The bay, which opens to the Adriatic Sea, consists of four gulfs surrounded by mountains that were once fjords. Yes, you read that right—the Bay of Kotor is the result of a glacial formation millions of years ago, which retreated and allowed seawater to flood the valley for 28 kilometres. Therefore, the topography of Kotor Bay resembles that of Norwegian or New Zealand fjords, making it the southernmost European fjord. Incredible, right?
So, in this post I’ll propose you a perfect itinerary to make the most of the bay of Kotor for a few days or a week !
This bay is worth exploring for a few days, or even a week if you have the time. In this article, you’ll find the perfect itinerary for a slow rhythm road trip through the Bay of Kotor and its surroundings.
DAY 1 | HERCEG NOVI
If you’re arriving from Dubrovnik airport, Croatia, Herceg Novi is a sunny and historical introduction to the Bay of Kotor. Located just a few kilometers from the border, it’s worth a day of exploration.
Founded in the 14th century as Sveti Stefan, the town was later named after Duke Herceg, with “Novi” (new) added. It was ruled by the Ottomans, Venetians, French, and Austro-Hungarians, each leaving their mark on the stari grad (old town) through a series of fortresses. Kanli Kula, meaning “bloody tower” in Turkish, has an amphitheater with stunning sea views. Forte Mare was restored by the Austrians in the 19th century, and Tvrdavz Spanjola, built by the Spanish in the 16th century, was later renovated by the Turks. For a peaceful retreat, visit Savina Monastery, perched above the town. Built in 1030, it features churches with frescoes depicting religious scenes.
Beaches in the Bay of Kotor are covered in rocks, given the mountainous fjord landscape. Meljine Beach, Savina Beach, and Bla Bla Beach are great spots for a swim, but bring water shoes. For the most adventurous, Mount Orjen, at 1,893 meters, offers excellent hiking and mountain biking in the summer.
Herceg Novi has a range of accommodations for every budget. I stayed at the Hotel Lazure and was not disappointed: an incredible dinner menu with fresh fish and a lovely area to relax by the beach or go for a swim!
DAY 2 | HERCEG NOVI TO PERAST
The road to Perast is one of the most scenic routes in Europe. Just imagine, to your left the turquoise blue expanse of the bay and to your right mountains, forests and monasteries strewn across the heights. Now you have an idea of what this one-hour crossing will offer you.
Perast’s Venetian heritage and wealth are reflected in its seventeen palazzi and sixteen churches that dot the small town. Some of the palaces have been converted into museums (such as Bujovic Palace, which displays the town’s history) or are just ruins. As for Perast’s main church, St Nicholas’ Church, work on its construction began in the 17th century but it was never completed due to the decline of the Catholic community. It is nonetheless emblematic of the town, because when you see any photo of Perast, you’ll find it there, standing proudly with the mountains of the Bay as a backdrop.
Caution : It’s impossible to park inside the town for safety and comfort reasons. As the town is made up of just one main thoroughfare and is very busy in summer, imagine if you could drive around there too… there would be traffic jams from 10am to 8pm every day. But don’t worry, there are plenty of parking spaces on the high street so you can easily get to the main street just a few hundred metres away.
Perast town is small, but it does have a few restaurants and good places to go for ice cream (Moritz Eis) and wine (Red & White Wine Bar). Don’t miss the shuttle bus (€5 return) to the island of Our Lady of the Rock. According to legend, this artificial island was built over the centuries by sailors who took an oath after finding the icon of the Virgin and Child on a rock in the sea on 22 July 1452. On their return from each successful voyage, they placed a rock in the bay. Over time, the islet gradually emerged from the sea. Every year on 22 July, local residents take their boats and throw rocks into the sea, widening the surface of the island.
Opposite the artificial island is the non-artificial St George Island, it houses a Benedictine monastery, surrounded by trees and a large cemetery. Nevertheless, it’s not possible to visit it for privacy reasons.
If you want to visit the surrounding area, don’t miss Risan for its ancient Roman mosaics, the prehistoric rock paintings at Lipci and the pretty beach of Morinj and its restaurant: Konoba Catovica Mlini focused on seafood, one of the best in the country!
Perast has only a limited choice of accommodation, so if everything is fully booked, you can also take the 20-minute drive toward Kotor.
DAY 3 & 4 | KOTOR REGION
If you were to spend just one day in Boca Bay, Kotor is the place I’d recommend spending your time. The town is a labyrinth of churches, historic Venetian buildings, coffee-filled squares and cats lounging on every corner. The city is as beautiful by day as it is by night, especially when the sun has finished covering the overhanging mountains in a golden mantle and the sky turns a deeper blue, bringing out the illuminations on the city’s buildings.
The best times to visit Kotor are,
- Early in the morning, as soon as the sun rises (5h in summer), the city wakes up: some cafés are just opening, the city is cleaned and cleared of crowds for a few hours before the hordes of tourists boarding the huge cruise ships a few hundred metres from Stari Grad take to the streets.
- The evening also gives you the chance to get away from the crowds, discover some good restaurants (for Montenegrin BBQ specialities, head outside the old town to BBQ Tanjda | in an intimate setting, there’s a very good address: Konoba Scala Santa | for seafood, everyone recommended the Restaurant Galion) or take a stroll as the shops close quite late.
Kotor’s iconic landmark is St John Castle, built in the 15th century and a UNESCO recognised heritage site. Kotor is renowned for its system of defensive walls and fortifications, which rise to 260 metres. The entry costs 8€ (but there’s a free way to enter I let you look on internet). The visit to the ramparts and its church, Church of Our Lady of Health, is quite demanding, as it involves a series of steps that take you up to a height where you have an uninterrupted view of the old fortified town and its sea-blue waters (allow 2 hours for the round trip, and don’t forget to take some water with you (in case some street vendors sell it once you’ve reached the castle).
You can also take a free walk around the lower ramparts of the town via several entrances, which will give you another view of the architecture and the town’s main square with its bell tower. It’s easy to spend a day or two here if you also want to enjoy the nearby beaches. The nearest square is Kotor Beach which is ok but by car if you head east then opposite the town, you will find a multitude of restaurants to eat with a view of the sea, Restoran Mademoiselle, Bokeski Gusti (with its really … vintage poster) as well as places to swim.
DAY 5 | CETINJE
Today, we’re getting away from the coast a little by stopping off at the Kotor Cable Car. Opened in 2023, it links Kotor to the Lovcen massif in just 11 minutes. For €23 return, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Bay of Kotor, Tivat and the surrounding mountains. Up high there’s a very good Forza Kuk restaurant as well as a Monte 1350 bar, a souvenir shop, a bike hire shop if you want to venture further inland and, above all, an Alpine Coaster. It’s for all the family, it’s a fun activity and it can go fast!
Once the morning is over, take the road to Cetinje. It takes just over 1 hour to get there via the serpentine road from Kotor. As you climb to the top, you’ll have a magnificent view of the Bay of Kotor before heading into the mountains of the Lovcen national park.
Cetinje was the capital of Montenegro until the country became part of Yugoslavia in 1918. It was founded at the end of the 15th century and then remodelled under the reign of King Nikola. Numerous embassies were established in the 19th century. These buildings were refurbished during the Yugoslav era and converted into conservatories, museums and private buildings. They are still in very good condition and bear witness to the city’s politically strategic past.
The town is also home to the Serbian Orthodox Monastery of Cetinje. Founded in the 15th century, it was completely rebuilt after several attacks by the Ottoman Empire in the 17th century.
Drive another 10 minutes and you’ll enter Lovcen National Park. The three-euro entrance fee gives you the chance to hike in the Montenegrin mountains and perhaps spot eagles, falcons and wolves. One of the highlights of the national park is the Njegos Mausoleum. After climbing the 461 steps, you’ll come across two tall black granite statues guarding the tomb of Montenegro’s greatest hero: Petar II Petrovic Njegos. He was the prince-bishop (vladika) who modernised Montenegro and strengthened its relations with Russia, enabling the unification of the country tribes. He was also a poet and philosopher, considered to be one of the greatest intellectuals of the Balkans.
You can also make a diversion to Njegusi, the birthplace of Njegos. Just 20 minutes from Cetijne, it’s a small village that offers a glimpse of authentic, rural Montenegro. The village is also known for its culinary specialities: the prsut (smoked dried ham) as well as good cheese and honey.
After a day full of adventure, get to Budva for a well-deserved relaxing evening !
DAY 6 & 7 | BUDVA COAST
Budva fut aussi un gros coup de coeur de mon 1 week itineraire, j’en ai donc fait un article complet que je vous invite à consulter juste ici !
Did you ever went to Montenegro ?