You might have never heard of Coimbra. I hadn’t either before planning my trip to Northern Portugal.
And I thought an afternoon trip in Coimbra would be enough. But it was not.
Coimbra turned out to be a delightful surprise, often overlooked by tourists or rushed through during day tours. And it’s sad as, after all, it was the capital of Portugal from 1131 (under the reign of Afonso Henriques) until 1255, when the political center was moved to Lisbon. While Coimbra may have lost its political importance, it has retained its cultural significance throughout the centuries.
I strongly recommend spending at least one day and one night in this historic city to experience its Portuguese rhythm of life, as well as its numerous landmarks and viewpoints! I
HOW TO GET TO COIMBRA
By bus: There are hourly departures from Porto Campanhã (15 minutes by metro from the city center) to Coimbra, and the journey takes about an hour. You can book tickets with two main bus companies: Flixbus or Rede Expressos. If you’re on a budget, I highly suggest comparing prices (starting at €2.95) on both platforms. From Lisbon, the trip to Coimbra takes about 2 hours and costs around €4.
By train: You can reach Coimbra from Lisbon in about 1h40/2h, with prices starting at €10. From Porto Campanhã train station, the ride takes about an hour, with tickets starting at €7.
WHAT TO SEE IN COIMBRA
- The Botanical Garden
The garden is located in the upper part of the old town and is definitely worth a visit, no matter the season. I went in January, and even then, some flowers were blooming, and the sun was warming me. The garden offers different atmospheres: one is Asian-inspired, with a bamboo alley and some abandoned temples, as well as a greenhouse featuring tropical plants from around the world. Then there’s the classical garden, which is lovely, with a fountain at its center and hedges and flowering trees scattered around. You’ll also find a large glass greenhouse reminiscent of the Crystal Palace in Madrid.
You can easily spend an hour wandering around, soaking in the tranquility of this UNESCO World Heritage-listed garden. It’s also part of the historic University of Coimbra, which I’ll tell you about next.
- The University of Coimbra
I had never visited a university as a tourist before. But this one isn’t just a campus for students—it’s the oldest university in the lusophone world (Portuguese-speaking) and one of the oldest in the world, founded in 1290 by King Denis I of Portugal. Today, it’s considered a symbol of academic excellence in Portugal and a living testament to the country’s cultural and scientific evolution.
You can visit parts of the university buildings, including the Joanina Library, which is rightly considered one of the most beautiful historical libraries in the world. This masterpiece of Portuguese Baroque, built in the early 18th century, symbolizes the academic power and prestige of Coimbra.
Your ticket also grants access to four other locations within the academic structure, grouped under the “Science Museum” label: the chemistry lab, the physics cabinet, and the most original and surprising of all—the cabinet of curiosities. One last location deserves its own spotlight, so I’ll talk about it in the next section…
Tickets cost €16.50 and give you access to these locations for 72 hours (though you’ll need to book a time slot for the library). Photos are not allowed inside the library, and visits are time-limited (15 minutes), but it’s undoubtedly the most beautiful Baroque library in Portugal—don’t miss it!
- The São Miguel Chapel
Is the university’s chapel, an architectural and religious gem hidden behind a large wooden door you have to knock on to request entry. It feels intimate and almost secret, like a place only locals know about. Built in the early 16th century, it reflects the Manueline architectural style (a uniquely Portuguese style developed under King Manuel I), which blends Gothic elements with Renaissance influences.
You’ll be struck by the details of the azulejos on the walls and, most of all, by its richly adorned ceiling featuring colorful floral patterns.
The chapel visit is included in the combined ticket.
- Quebra Costas Stairs
This is a staircase built in the 12th century that houses a good tapas restaurant (Restaurante Tapas nas Costas) and a venue offering Fado music performances every night at 6 PM. At Fado ao Centro, you’ll hear a style of Fado different from the one in Porto, even though the cities are just an hour apart. This Fado is traditionally sung by university students, often as serenades, but it also addresses social themes, making it an unmissable experience in Coimbra (plus for 16€ you get a Porto wine tasting).
- Rua Ferreira Borges and Rua Visconde da Luz
These are the city’s main streets, home to numerous souvenir shops and restaurants. Don’t miss tasting Coimbra’s sweet specialties at Pastelaria Briosa. They offer several treats like Pudding Clarissas or Pastel de Tentúgal, both made with egg yolks and sugar. They’re delicious but very … very sweet.
Also, visit Café Santa Cruz in Praça 8 de Maio. While it doesn’t serve the freshest food or drinks, there’s a free Fado performance daily at 6 PM that’s worth the detour. I also tried some pastries at Pastelaria Visconde, which were very good and affordable!
- Watch the sunset from one of the many viewpoints in the old town
I found a sort of hidden spot on Rua do Cabido. Some stairs there lead to a tiny area where you can admire the sunset. There’s a restaurant to your left if you want a fine meal; otherwise, on the same street, there’s a bar serving refreshing and affordable wine or beer, depending on your mood!
If you’re on the other side of the river, with a view of the old town’s hill, it’s also a perfect spot to watch the white buildings and red rooftops glow warmer as the sun sets.
WHERE TO EAT IN COIMBRA ?
Here’s a recap of the addresses I enjoyed and those that were recommended to me :
- Have a lunch or a dinner : Zé Manel dos Ossos is a budget-friendly place, Restaurante No Tacho cozinha portuguesa to try authentic portughese food and Restaurante Tapas nas Costas for it’s selection of tapas.
- Have a drink : Café Santa Cruz for its free fado show (but average quality), Terraço Da Alta for it’s unforgettable setup, Noster Taberna & Wine Bar for it’s fine selection of portughese wine & food. And of course Fado ao Centro to taste some Porto wine after the fado representation.
- Have an insuline shot : Pastelaria Briosa & Pastelaria Visconde to try and retry sugary pastry from the region.
I hope this article has given you a good overview of this Portuguese gem and that you’ll had it to your itinerary on your next Portughese trip ! If you’re planning a trip to Portugal soon, I’ve curated some shots of Lisbon showcasing the beauty of the capital through it’s buildings & viewpoints.
What’s your favorite city in Portugal?