Krakow is by far one of my favorite cities in Europe. Each season in the former capital of Poland brings a different perspective on its historical and cultural buildings. While summer in Poland is very pleasant, winter should not be overlooked either. It’s cold, of course, but the snow that blankets the city, with its colorful buildings and churches, adds a magical, enchanting feel.
In this article, I’ll talk about my three favorite neighborhoods in Krakow. Each neighborhood reflects both the grandeur and the dark past of the city, and each has its own unique characteristics.
1. HOW TO GET TO KRAKOW
- By bus: If you’re traveling from Paris, the journey with Flixbus takes around 22 hours, which I consider a bit excessive. For those coming from Western Europe, flying is likely the better choice. However, if you’re in Eastern Europe (such as Berlin, Vienna, or Budapest), you can reach Krakow in about 8 hours by bus, with multiple Flixbus departures each day, starting at around 20€.
- By train: There are direct trains from Vienna to Krakow, running several times daily and taking about 5 hours (prices starting from 20€). You can also find trains from Berlin, which take about 7 hours and start at 30€, along with connections from other major Eastern European cities. From Polish cities like Warsaw, fast trains are available (2 hours and 20 minutes, starting at 20€), as well as slower, more affordable options. It’s best to check directly at the train station for the latest schedules.
- By plane: Krakow is accessible through both low-cost and traditional airlines, including LOT Polish Airlines, Ryanair, Wizzair, Lufthansa, and Air France. For the best flight options from your departure city, check sites like Skyscanner and Google Flights.
- By car: Krakow is a 3-hour drive from Warsaw (290 km) and Wroclaw (270 km), making it an easy journey.
2. STARE MIASTO, KRAKOW’S OLD TOWN
To give Krakow its noble reputation during the Renaissance, architects from all over Europe, particularly many Italians, were invited to contribute. Their influence is evident in the warm colors of the Old Town and some architectural features. The Old Town was once surrounded by city walls, which were dismantled in the 19th century due to the city’s rapid growth. Today, the Planty Park forms a green boundary around the Old Town, where part of the fortifications has been preserved.
- St. Florian’s Gate and the Barbican
The Barbican, constructed in 1499 as a response to the Ottoman threat, is a military structure made of thick stone and brick walls, complete with openings for artillery. The Barbican is a must-visit site, as it stands as one of the few Gothic defensive structures still intact in Europe. A living witness of the past. You can opt for a combined visit to both the Barbican and the remaining city walls, which include St. Florian’s Gate.
St. Florian’s Gate is one of the eight surviving gates from the Middle Ages and historically served as an entrance to the Old Town. Its foundations date back to the 14th century, while its Baroque roof was added in the 17th century. Named after Saint Florian, the patron saint of Poland’s historic kingdom, the gate was embellished in the 19th century with relief sculptures that depict the city’s history and is crowned with a statue of Saint Florian.
Upon passing through St. Florian’s Gate, you’ll find yourself on the Royal Road, which was used for the coronation of Polish kings. Florianska Street leads directly to the city’s main square: Rynek Główny.
- Rynek Główny: Krakow’s Market Square
Founded in 1257, it is the largest medieval square in Europe. Today, the square features the Cloth Hall, St. Aldabert’s Church, the city belfry, and St. Mary’s Basilica. It has witnessed many significant events in the nation’s history and now hosts a variety of festivals and events.
- Sukiennice: The Cloth Hall of Krakow
This is the commercial heart of the city. During the Renaissance, it was a significant source of income for Krakow, as merchants from outside could exclusively sell their goods here. Today, artisans offer typical Polish items such as wooden craft and amber jewelry, alongsite with a variety of souvenirs—both handmade and mass-produced in Asia—at their stalls. You’re sure to find something special here if you’re looking for typical souvenirs from the country.
- Bazylika Mariacka: The City’s Religious Emblem
The Gothic-style Basilica of Our Lady has proudly stood in the market square for 700 years (at least in its current form).While a ticket is required for full access to the church, you can have a free look at the entrance to admire its stunning starry vault and the decorative motifs on the walls. The interior is one of the finest I ever saw in a church so it’s worth taking a look. If you want to explore further, one of the cathedral’s highlights is the altar piece created by Wit Stwosz. This wooden sculpture, regarded as a masterpiece of medieval art, depicts various events from the life of Jesus Christ.
- Wawel Castle: A Castle Guarded by a Dragon
Its foundations were laid in the 10th century, and a century later, it became the residence of Poland’s first kings. However, the castle’s current appearance dates back to the Renaissance period in Krakow, thanks to the efforts of Polish and Italian architects. With the transfer of the capital to Warsaw after a terrible fire in 1595, the castle was abandoned, looted, and occupied. During World War II, the palace became the residence of the general governor of occupied Poland. Today, it welcomes hundreds of thousands of visitors each year, , showcasing the various historical periods that have shaped Krakow, from a royal residence to a defensive point for the Prussian army.
Wawel Hill, where the castle is located, is also home to a legend about a fearsome dragon that once lived in a cave. This dragon terrorized the citizens, devouring many of them, and countless attempts to kill it failed until a clever shoemaker found a plan. He filled a sheep’s skin with sulfur, and when the dragon ate the sheep, it became so thirsty that it drank all the water from the Vistula River, which border the hill, ultimately causing it to explode. Today, you can visit the Dragon’s Cave in the summer, and many vendors sell statues and bells inspired by the legendary creature. in its likeness.
- Czartoryski Museum : testimony of the grandeur of Poland
Founded in 1796 by Princess Izabela Czartoryska, the museum was established to preserve Polish heritage and commemorate Krakow’s history. It displays ancient European artifacts, including furniture, porcelain, and tapestries, as well as a collection of weapons and Roman, Greek, and Egyptian antiquities. It is especially known for housing Leonardo da Vinci’s famous work: The Lady with an Ermine.
3. KAZIMIERZ DISTRICT OF KRAKOW
Krakow has deep ties to the history of its Jewish population, who settled in the area centuries ago and significantly influenced the city’s development. Unfortunately, during World War II, they faced confinement in ghettos and deportation. Today, the city still bears many traces of this history through its architecture, restaurants and museums.
- The Synagogue-Museums
The synagogues of Krakow have maintained their original religious purposes, although some have transformed into cultural and historical sites. The Stara Synagoga (Old Synagogue) now serves as a museum dedicated to Jewish culture in Krakow, while the Wysoka Synagoga (High Synagogue), which was heavily damaged during World War II, currently hosts concerts, meetings, and exhibitions. Meanwhile, the Isaac Synagogue, hide a stunning baroque interior featuring 17th-century Hebrew frescoes and hosts exhibitions and documentaries about the neighborhood’s history. Additionally, you can visit two active synagogues: the Tempel Synagogue and the Remuh Synagogue, along with the old Jewish cemetery.
- Nowy Square: A Fast Food Temple
At the center of Plac Nowy, a row of stalls specializes in zapiekanki, a beloved Polish fast food item. A zapiekanka is a long-sliced baguette where you add cheese, mushrooms, meat, vegetables, etc., grilled, and topped with a generous dose of sauce. It’s the number one enemy of cholesterol, but it’s so delicious and filling that a single slice is enough to satisfy you for the whole day. It’s a must-try attraction during your exploration of the historic neighborhood.
- Strolling through the Streets of Kazimierz: Street Art & Film Locations
The district has become an open-air art gallery, showcasing street art on various old and modern buildings. The Galicia Jewish Museum features a mural using symbols from Jewish tradition: against a bright yellow background, the menorah, a nine-branched candlestick used by Jews during Hanukkah in November, is depicted. Another piece that struck me is the mural in Bawół Square, which tells the story of a woman I would like to write a few words about.
The Story of Irena Sendler: She was born in 1910 in Warsaw. During WWII, she used a special permit to move in and out of the Warsaw Ghetto, bringing food, medicine, and aid to those inside. Later, as the head of the underground Council to Aid Jews, she and her network saved 2,500 children by smuggling them out in suitcases, packages, and even coffins. The German army discovered her and arrested her in 1943 before sentencing her to death. But she escaped execution by bribing guards and passed away peacefully at 98 years old, after writing to the Polish Senate that “Every child saved with my help and the help of all the wonderful secret messengers, who today are no longer living, is the justification of my experience on this earth, and not a title to glory.”
Emblematic of Kazimierz, Jozefa Street, not far from Szeroka Street, contrasts with its aging facades. It was chosen for several scenes in the film “Schindler’s List” (the liquidation of the ghetto) and is home to many nice restaurants, bars, and designer shops.
4. PODGORZE DISTRICT
Leave the Kazimierz district, cross the bridge over the Vistula River that winds through Krakow, and you will find yourself in the Podgorze district. This is the area where the Nazi regime established the Jewish ghetto in March 1941 to confine the city’s Jewish population away from the center.
- The Remains of the Ghetto Wall
The Krakow ghetto was one of the largest Polish ghettos with between 15,000 and 20,000 people crammed into it for two years. To isolate the Jewish population from the rest of the city, all the windows and doors facing the “outside” world were bricked up. The ghetto was enclosed by barbed wire and stone walls carved to look gravestones. A small portion of the wall has been preserved and restored today to serve as a memorial. You can find it between 25 Lwowska Street and 62 Limanowskiego Street.
- The Main Square of the Ghetto: Site of Selection for the Death Camps
Bohaterów Square was the location where the roll calls and selections of Jews for deportation to the concentration camps occurred. During the liquidation of the ghetto in 1943, many elderly people, sick individuals, and children were shot in the square. Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who managed the pharmacy “Under the Eagle,” overlooking the square, was able to help many people due to his non-Jewish status. He smuggled in food and medicine and provided false documents. In 2005, following the pharmacist’s writings, it was decided to erect 68 empty chairs arranged in rows (like when residents had to stand during roll calls) that symbolize the belongings abandoned by the deportees before their final journey. Each chair represents 1,000 Jews from Krakow who were victims of Nazi barbarism.
- Deutsche Emailwarenfabrik: The Schindler Factory Museum
Adjacent to the former ghetto is the famous factory of Oskar Schindler, whose story inspired the film “Schindler’s List,” a masterpiece by Steven Spielberg. Far more than a simple reconstruction of what the factory looked like during WWII, this is, for me, THE museum to visit in Krakow.
The factory produced enamelware and was taken from three Jewish owners before being handed over to the German Oskar Schindler in 1939. He created enamel goods for both civilian and military use, allowing the factory to be classified as essential to the war effort, which enabled Jewish workers to continue working there without the threat of deportation. After the ghetto’s destruction in March 1943, Schindler used his connections to establish a sub-camp that sheltered 1,000 people, providing significantly better sanitary conditions and food rations than those in the main camp. The Germans eventually liquidated the sub-camp, aware of their imminent defeat. Schindler opened then a munitions factory in Czechia to employ Jews and save the lives of 1,100 people.
Today, the Factory Museum presents various aspects of life in Krakow during the Nazi occupation. Each room is meticulously designed to recreate specific places and streets in Krakow—from a hair salon to a train station, as well as a labor camp or a bustling street. You will also be able to see Schindler’s office and the list of Jewish people he managed to save.
What is your favourite neighbourhood in Krakow ? Do you have other recommandations ?