Just half an hour from Marseille, there’s a natural park that’s unique in France, and well worth a day’s detour to enjoy its turquoise waters and numerous day hikes. These are the calanques of Cassis. Calanques are unique limestone rock formations dating back 80 million years. Marine erosion has exploited geological faults in this rock, sculpting the coastline as we know it today. The word “calanque” comes from the Provençal word for coves surrounded by steep slopes. These formations are home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the south of France.
In this article, you’ll find all the information you need to get to the Calanques de Cassis, spend the day there and explore the park.
1. PRACTICAL INFORMATION
First, If you’re planning to visit the Calanques de Cassis, it’s worth checking out some practical information.
- Allow around 3 hours for the round trip to reach the 3 creeks at your own pace.
- It’s advisable to bring 2 liters of water. There are no shops in the protected park, except at the entrance, where the store only opens at 2pm.
- Remember to bring sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat. Although the path is largely shaded by the many pine trees that surround it, the sun can be particularly hot.
- Bring good walking shoes or sneakers. The terrain is very uneven, and the stones, polished by hundreds of walkers every day, can become slippery, increasing the risk of falling.
- Arrive early in the morning to enjoy the calanques before the early afternoon rush.
Difficulty: Calanque de Port-Pin and Port-Miou are suitable for families.
Calanque d’En-Vaux: accessible if you’re in good shape, but don’t underestimate the route and think about the return!
2. HOW TO GET TO CALANQUES DE CASSIS
By train: Take a TER train from Marseille or Toulon, usually available every hour. The journey takes between 25 and 30 minutes to the outlying Cassis station. To get in the city center, you can take the M1 bus, rent Lime self-service bicycles, or walk through the wineries of Cassis. Once in the city-center you will see signs to get to the Calanque, on the west of the city.
By bus: From Marseille Castellane, line 78 leaves every hour. The scenic route through La Gineste takes you to downtown Cassis in 25 minutes. Once in the city center, you will see signs leading you to the parc, on the west of the city.
By car: From Marseille, allow 30 minutes, or twice that if you’re driving from Toulon. If possible, take the Route des Crêtes from La Ciotat, which is part of the Parc National des Calanques and offers spectacular views from its many lookouts along the coast. In Cassis, parking is charged at a maximum of 10 euros
3. THE PERFECT ITINERARY TO DISCOVER THE CALANQUES OF CASSIS
The Calanques de Cassis are made up of three creeks scattered along the Mediterranean coast.
The first is the calanque de Port-Miou, located ten minutes from the park entrance making it the most accessible. It serves as a nautical base, housing over 500 boats, but also offers a beautiful view of Cap Canaille of Cassis and its ochre cliffs plunging into the sea, accessible via a landscaped walkway.
The second is the Calanque de Port-Pin, which can be reached in 20 minutes via a more demanding path with several slopes. The hike ends with steps leading down to the beach, where you can admire the clear blue-green water. The route is accessible, and many families go there for picnics, which means that the beach fills up easily and it’s hard to find quiet spots.
That is why the third Calanque d’En-Vaux is the most physically demanding but also the most rewarding and less crowded. After leaving the calanque de Port-Pin, you can opt for the scenic route or reserve it for the return journey and take the shorter route.
I chose the second option to avoid the crowds as much as possible. The trail consists of a succession of climbs to the top of a cliff, followed by a long descent through a sinuous passage. Although there are iron handholds to ease the descent, it’s important to take your time and choose your footing carefully, as the fall could be painful. Once at the end of the creek, the path becomes fairly flat, surrounded by imposing white limestone cliffs, reminiscent of canyons.
As you round a final bend, the Calanque d’En-Vau comes into view, offering a range of colors from turquoise to navy blue, depending on depth and the presence of algae. The water invites you to take a dip, and was surprisingly at a good temperature, which is rare in the calanques, where the water is often cool due to the geography, the icy underwater springs and the mistral wind.
I was there around 10 a.m., and the beach was already beginning to fill up with colorful towels and umbrellas, as well as canoes clinging to the cliffs. For some peace, it’s easy enough to find a path along the sides of the beach and perch on the cliffs to enjoy a more secluded spot.
For the return journey, you can take the same path as the outward journey, but I highly recommend taking the panoramic path after the climb to the top of the cliff. Although longer, the views are well worth the effort. Instead of passing through pine forests, you will go along the coast with breathtaking views of the blue waters of En-Vau and Cap Canaille de Cassis as you reach Port-Miou.
